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Louise Trotter

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From Russia with love: September 2018

I’ve always wanted to see St. Basil’s Cathedral, I could see myself standing in Red Square staring up at those iconic onion domes. I knew that if I could see that, the rest of the sights and experiences in Russia would be icing on the proverbial cake. But it was better than icing. Extraordinary architecture of design and colour; exquisite mosaics and murals in churches, cathedrals and even subway stations; gold and bronze and gilded statues; history; religion; monasteries, monks and a daily bowl of the most delicious borsht.

My travel starting point was Saint Petersburg and specifically at the St. Peter and Paul fortress established on the orders of Peter the Great and is considered to mark the founding of Saint Petersburg. It does not have a pleasant history. The fortress was built on the backs of forced labourers who died during construction, and then the fortress was used to guard and torture political prisoners including Dostoevsky in 1849. and Trotsky in 1906. But notwithstanding some grim history, the architecture of Saint Petersburg is truly a sight to behold and the Fortress sets the stage for the rest of Saint Petersburg. It’s a wonderful walking city and by foot I was able to explore: Peter the Great's summer gardens, Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood, Cathedral of our Lady of Kazan, Palace Square, the Hermitage, St. Isaac’s Cathedral, Nevsky Prospect, Palace of Peter I and the fountains of Peterhof, the grand palace and a treat at the Alexdriinsky theatre to see Swan Lake on the evening of my birthday no less!

But to get further afield, you do need to access to a vehicle. I organized a private tour with a local woman to Novgorod. Situated on the ancient trade route between Central Asia and northern Europe, Novgorod (about 250 km south of Saint Petersburg) was Russia's first capital in the 9th century. Surrounded by churches and monasteries, it was a centre for Orthodox spirituality as well as Russian architecture and became a UNESCO heritage site in 1992.

Back in Saint Petersburg it was easy travel to Moscow, a mere 4 hours on the Sapsan high-speed train, at 250 km/h. My sight-seeing started at the Kremlin and Cathedral Square aptly named for the great cathedrals that stand here - Cathedral of the Annunciation, Cathedral of the Assumption, and Cathedral of the Archangel. From the Kremlin it was easy to explore the other monuments in Moscow, in particular: St. Basil's Cathedral, Kazan Cathedral, GUM and the Bolshoi, the Metropol Hotel, and the Dostoevsky statue. I walked for the most part except to take in the grandeur of the stations on the Moscow subway line, specifically the ‘brown ring’, read more about that my GlobeTrotter blog: “Moscow — the Underside!”. But then also used the subway to travel to the Novodevichy Cemetery.

Burial in the Novodevichy Cemetery was second in prestige only to burial in the Kremlin Wall Necropolis. It’s the most prestigious cemetery in Moscow and the final resting place for many notable Russians such as Nikolai Gogol, Boris Yeltsin, Stalin’s wife and Anton Chekov. There are over 20,000 graves in this cemetery and wandering through the sections is akin to walking through an art gallery of beautiful statues, monuments, and sculptures to Russia’s writers, astronauts, poets and political leaders. The Novodevichy Cemetery didn’t disappoint this Tombstone Tourist (link to GlobeTrotter blog)

My last stop was about 75km to the northeast of Moscow to visit the town of Sergiev Posad and the Trinity Monastery of St Sergius. Founded in 1340 by the Russia’s most revered saint, St Sergius of Radonezh who was posthumously named Russia’s patron Saint. This was the residence of the patriarch and a working monastery of the highest Orthodox rank. Today the monastery is an active religious centre with a visible population of monks in residence.But perhaps the highlight for me on route to Sergieve Posad was my opportunity to meet Mr. Anatoly Mikhailovich Lovanov who I referred to in the GlobeTrotter blog as: The Maud Lewis of Russia.

The photo essay below, showcases those highlights from Saint Petersburg to Moscow. I came back from Russia with love indeed.

 

Featured
We've got this
We've got this

When it looks like you are carrying the weight of the world but this is the standard of architectural features in Saint Petersburg.

Summer Gardens
Summer Gardens

Commissioned in 1704, Peter the Great's summer gardens were designed in the style of Versailles with a glorious english style garden and many fountains.

Peter and Paul Fortress
Peter and Paul Fortress

The fortress was established on the orders of Peter the Great and is considered to mark the founding of St. Petersburg. It does not have a pleasant history, due to hundreds of forced labourers who died building it and then when it was used to guard and torture political prisoners including Dostoevsky in 1849.

The golden spire, sits atop the Cathedral of SS Peter and Paul located within the fortress.

Aspiring
Aspiring

The spire on the Saint Peter and Paul cathedral made it the second tallest building in Saint Petersburg. The grandeur of this cathedral is fitting given that it is the burial site for nearly all the rulers of Russia since Peter the Great.

Colonnade
Colonnade

Cathedral of our Lady of Kazan located in Nevsky Prospekt, Saint Petersburg was constructed in 1811. The design was modelled after St. Peters basilica in Rome and has numerous columns both inside and outside.

The exterior columns make up the colonnade which more than 69 metres in length and 69 meters in height.

Day at the office
Day at the office

A number of vendors set up their booths parallel to the canal and nearby the Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood. This man looked totally warm, cozy and content, engrossed in a good book while the tourists wandered by.

Church of the Resurrection of Christ
Church of the Resurrection of Christ

Church of the Resurrection of Christ or more commonly referred to as the Church of the Saviour On Spilled Blood as it was here that a bomb was thrown into the carriage of Alexander II , killing the Tsar in 1881. Inside, there is more than 23,000 square feet of mosaics (one of the largest in Europe). The main dome has the mosaic painting of the Christ.

 The mosaics extend from floor to  ceiling–including the walls, arches, and altar.

The mosaics extend from floor to ceiling–including the walls, arches, and altar.

St. George's Monastery
St. George's Monastery

St. George's Monastery is Russia’s oldest monastery. Located just south of the city of Novgorod (about 250km south of Saint Petersburg) which was the capital of Russia in the 9th century. The former capital was situated on the ancient trade route between Central Asia and northern Europe. Now as UNESCO heritage site

IMG_0718.jpg
Belfry Of St. Sophia Cathedral
Belfry Of St. Sophia Cathedral

St. Sophia Cathedral is the oldest church in Russa, inaugurated in 1050.

The bell tower is a five-level tower adjacent to St. Sophia dates from the 15th century. Musical instruments are not allowed in the services of the Russian Orthodox Church, and bells played a very important role in the service.

The largest bell now stands on the ground near by after the top of the bell that is hung in a belfry was removed by Ivan the III after the bells were rung to warn the people of Novgorod of his approach.

Not amused
Not amused

The architecture in Saint Petersburg is superb, I particularly loved this building with the hollowed out space for this man’s bust. Although he doesn’t look very impressed!

Admiring
Admiring

The facade of the Admiralty building that used to be the headquarters of the Admiralty Board and is not the headquarters of the Russian Navy.

Angels on duty
Angels on duty

St. Isaac's Cathedral, Saint Petersburg is one of the world's largest cathedrals, opened in 1858 but became a museum of atheism during the Soviet era. Each of the 4 corners has a pair of angels supporting gas torches and you can climb the 242 stairs to the dome (and I did!) for panoramic views of the city

 The fresco inside the dome, depicts Maria surrounded by saints. At the center of the fresco,at a height of about 80 meters there is a silver bird representing the Holy Spirit.

The fresco inside the dome, depicts Maria surrounded by saints. At the center of the fresco,at a height of about 80 meters there is a silver bird representing the Holy Spirit.

 The mosaic work is so intricate and done with such perfection that when you view it up close, you’d swear it was painted.

The mosaic work is so intricate and done with such perfection that when you view it up close, you’d swear it was painted.

 The mosaic work on the interior of St Isaac’s Cathedral started in 1851 and continued through to 1941. It’s said that the glitter of the interior is partially attributed to the 400 kilograms of gold that constitutes some of the mosaics.

The mosaic work on the interior of St Isaac’s Cathedral started in 1851 and continued through to 1941. It’s said that the glitter of the interior is partially attributed to the 400 kilograms of gold that constitutes some of the mosaics.

Strength in numbers
Strength in numbers

The Beloselsky-Belozersky Palace constructed in 1747 is recognizable due to its striking pink colour and amazing facade. Located along the bank of the Fontanka River near the famous Anichkov Bridge and Nevsky Prospekt, this architectural gem is certainly easy to find.

Monplaisir
Monplaisir

In the corner of the lower park of the Peterhof property is the place on the shore of the Gulf of Finland, known as Monplaisir, which was Peter the Great’s favourite place. This is the path from the Montplaisir out to the water but also the first place you’ll see if you arrive to Peterhof by boat.

Peter's Court
Peter's Court

A UNESCO world heritage site, laid out on the orders of Peter the Great in 1721, inspired after a visit to Versailles, these are the palaces and gardens of Peterhof (Peter's Court). The palace was built to befit the very highest of monarchs but the main attraction are the fountains of Peterhof. The most famous, the Grand Cascade, runs from the Grand Palace to the Marine Canal and to the sea. It comprises 64 different fountains, and over 200 bronze statues.


Gilded Golden
Gilded Golden
Out to sea
Out to sea

The view from the Grand Palace down the Grand Cascade and then eventually out to the sea.

Onion Domes of St. Basils
Onion Domes of St. Basils

Commissioned by Ivan the Terrible (that in itself is fabulous), legend goes that the design was deemed so beautiful that Ivan blinded the architect so he'd never make anything else as exquisite.

I passed through Red Square at least 3 times a day to take in the view of St. Basils. Regardless of weather, it's spectacular and for me epitomizes Russia!

Photogenic
Photogenic

One of the most photographed sights in Moscow. I think the volume of photos that I took alone catapulted that statistic. All angles, all views, all fabulous

Cathedral Square
Cathedral Square

Cathedral Square is the central square of the Moscow Kremlin where all of its streets used to converge in the 15th century. The square's name relates to the great cathedrals that stand here - The Cathedral of the Annunciation, The Cathedral of The Assumption, and The Cathedral of The Archangel. This was once the stage for official parades to mark the coronations of the Tsars, and also of massed religious processions on great church holidays.


Tsar Bell
Tsar Bell

The Tsar Bell was cast in 1733-1735 on the order of Empress Anna Ioannovna by hereditary Muscovy casters and bell founders Ivan Motorin and his son Mikhail. Up till now, the Tsar Bell is considered to be the biggest one in the world. It weighs about 202 ton, it is 6.14 meter high and its diameter is 6.6 meters.

Tombstone Tourist
Tombstone Tourist

Burial in the Novodevichy Cemetery was second in prestige only to burial in the Kremlin Wall Necropolis. With the fall of the Soviet Union, now only the Novodevichy Cemetery is used for symbolically significant burials. My quest was to see the monument for Anton Chekhov's, but I also relished seeing the tombs of Russian authors, musicians, playwrights, poets, famous actors, political leaders, scientists and Boris Yeltsin.


Join us
Join us

Moscow’s underground has 13 lines and 206 stations decorated with frescoes, marble columns and ornate chandeliers. This commuter waiting in front of a mural caught my eye.

Reflecting stained glass
Reflecting stained glass

The circle line orbits Moscow and the stations are known for having the most beautiful art and architecture. I used the metro quite a bit but rode the entire circle line, hopping on and off to check out each station. This image at with the stained glass reflecting in the oncoming train is one of my fav’s.

Stop at Komsomolskaya
Stop at Komsomolskaya

If you have to wait for a train, you want it to happen at the Komsomolskaya Station, where Moscow’s metro feels more like an imperial ballroom. It’s said that the design of the station was to establish the expectation of the Metro as being the "Palace for the People". Love that there is grandeur for all to enjoy in these tunnels under the city.