Karl wrote a letter to the Truro News on April 4, 1900, from Newcastle: "Arrived from Sydney this afternoon, and as the rain is coming down too much for travelling, I will drop you a line, just to let you know everything is going ok."
Subsequently, in the local Newcastle "Herald" on April 19th, 1900, it was reported:
"Karl M. Creelman, the young Canadian cyclist who is riding round the world on a bicycle, spent Wednesday in Newcastle and early yesterday morning he left for Brisbane in continuation of his journey... Creelman is taking photographs of the country he goes through and when he gets back home he will have the pictures converted into lantern slides, and will go through Canada lecturing on the world at large, from the point of view of a man of 21 summers. The young Canadian was delighted with his short stay in Newcastle."
I was looking forward to my stop in Newcastle for two reasons: the connection back to Newcastle upon Tyne, England, and the iconic ocean pools.
First - the Tale of Two Newcastles
Newcastle-on-Tyne is located north of the River Tyne in England, "up on the Tyne," hence its official name: Newcastle upon Tyne. Just south, less than 5 miles across the river, lies the town of Gateshead where I was born. I wrote about this in Karl Chronicle Post #176, as you'll recall, dear reader, that Karl travelled to England after being in Australia, while I did the reverse.
The Australian city of Newcastle in New South Wales is deliberately named after Newcastle upon Tyne in England. The Australian settlement was initially known as Coal River and then Kingstown before being renamed Newcastle in the early 1800s. This was a conscious choice to reflect the famous English coal port, and the connection is still evident in some place names like Jesmond, Hexham, and Wallsend, which are also found in the English Newcastle area.
Newcastle was established in 1804 by Lieutenant Charles Menzies as a settlement for convicts who mined coal. The first half of the nineteenth century saw the transformation of Newcastle into a free port following the closure of the penal settlement. Coal was the primary export, generally destined for other Australian ports, but in the late 1840s, small shipments of coal and cargoes of sheep, cattle, and horses were also sent to New Zealand.
Second - the Ocean Pools
Those original convicts who mined the coal were also responsible for creating what would become a popular attraction for tourists and locals. In 1819, they cut out a rock platform for the personal use of Major James Morisset, the longest-serving Commandant of Newcastle. His private swimming spot was initially referred to as the 'Commandant's Baths.' It is now exclusively referred to as the 'Bogey Hole'; this name came into regular usage sometime after and is said to originate from the Australian Aboriginal language, meaning 'to bathe.'
The Bogey Hole is now listed on the New South Wales Heritage Register in recognition of its national significance as the earliest known example of a purpose-built ocean swimming pool in Australia. See the Bogey Hole in action.
This concept of creating swimming pools within the ocean became popular throughout Australia, and Newcastle offers several stunning examples. My favourite was the Newcastle Ocean Baths, housed in a beautiful Art Deco pavilion. Though constructed and in use before World War One, they weren't formally opened until the 1920s. Their popularity has never diminished through the decades, and thousands of locals remember them fondly as the place where they first learned to swim.
The baths remain incredibly popular today. I sat on a bench, taking a break from my explorations, and chatted with an older fellow—originally from Liverpool, England—who was also pausing during his daily bike ride. As we watched the ocean rhythmically fill the swimming pool, he told me he had wanted to live somewhere where winter wouldn't encumber his activities. He found that in Newcastle and never looked back.
Today's 'Newie'
Dear reader, I really liked Newcastle – or 'Newie' as it's affectionately known – Australia's second oldest city. Although there may have been that sentimental linkage to the name of my birthplace, I think it was more that this city perfectly captures the essence of the Australian active lifestyle.
After my walk, I headed to a beachside restaurant for avocado eggs on sourdough bread—seemingly the staple breakfast in Australia. From my table, I observed people of all ages wandering down to the beach with flip-flops and towels wrapped around their waists, heading for a swim and then to lay out and dry off on the sandy beach. Those who weren't walking a trail or swimming at the beach or in the ocean pools were on their bikes or surfing. Honestly, I could have sworn the entire population of Newcastle was outside being active and then having breakfast, lunch, or coffee—or all three—at one of the great beachside restaurants.
Karl didn't mention the beaches in his brief stay but as he mentioned it was raining, it would make sense he wasn't laying out on the beach.
But what intrigues me most is the reference from the Newcastle Herald reporting Karl was taking photographs intending to convert them into lantern slides for future lectures in Canada. I continue to search for any evidence of these photographs or slides, but have not yet had any success. Stay tuned dear reader.
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