What we saw along the way - Karl Chronicles - Post #235

Karl arrived in Australia on a battered lumber ship, having spent 87 days aboard the Ivy, including Christmas Day, New Year's Day and his 22nd Birthday. On February 11th, the Ivy docked in Melbourne.

And while Karl wasted no time leaving the ship to start cycling through Australia, I had yet to arrive, choosing to begin my journey in New Zealand’s North Island, then South Island, where Karl wanted to explore but didn't get to.

Upon arriving in Australia, to gain a sense of the First Peoples and their culture, it seemed fitting to begin my journey at one of Australia's most iconic and recognized landmarks, Ayers Rock, also known as Uluru to the Anangu, the traditional Indigenous inhabitants.

In Melbourne, Karl and I visited the famed Flemington Racecourse, soaking in the thrill of the races and the lively betting scene. Just as captivating was the fashion—immortalized in Queen Bee’s column—where style rivalled the action on the track.

Karl likely saw Melbourne’s Royal Exhibition Building, while I toured its newly reopened Dome Promenade for a sweeping bird’s-eye view of the city. 

From Melbourne, Karl cycled through the heat and hills of Victoria and New South Wales (Through the heat and history), faced warnings of Not-So-Deadly Wildlife, and arrived in Sydney just as the bubonic plague was spreading, a reminder to stay healthy and Wash and Pray.

And while I was also glad to be travelling after Ned Kelley's gang was no longer a threat, I did detour to Canberra, Australia's capital. However, I then got back on track, meeting Karl in Sydney.

While in Sydney, Karl received generous hospitality from Reverend H.A. Robertson, a fellow Nova Scotian and missionary with a remarkable past. We explored Sydney Karl with his hosts, and me with a camera and curiosity (Sightseeing in Sydney).

I stayed at the Fullerton Hotel, which was once the General Post Office in Sydney, where Karl departed from; today, it's one of Australia's most distinguished heritage buildings.

While Karl was in Sydney, a special three-page "souvenir" program was published to honour his ambitious worldwide journey. The program, likely sponsored by the Goold Bicycle Company, boldly proclaimed: "Karl Creelman, the young Canadian world tourist - he is wheeling on a Red Bird Special Model 55 Round the World because he wants to see just what it looks like."

Karl wrote a letter to the Truro News on April 4, 1900, from Newcastle: "Arrived from Sydney this afternoon, and as the rain is coming down too much for travelling, I will drop you a line, just to let you know everything is going ok." I liked Newcastle, or 'Newie' as it's affectionately known, Australia's second-oldest city. Although there may have been a sentimental connection to the name of my birthplace, I believe it's more than that; this city perfectly captures the essence of the Australian active lifestyle.

When Karl left Newcastle, he made his way toward Brisbane, stopping in Muswellbrook. I explored what Karl could have been eating during his travels in Australia. I came across an excerpt from The Table, a regular Muswellbrook Chronicle column featuring seven recipes.

After riding into Brisbane, Karl had his photo taken. He was described as a "presentation of a fresh and boyish face, looking not one minute more than its 21 years of life, and topping a sturdy frame, somewhat short, but compact as an oak and still fully developed….."

Karl left Brisbane on May 1st and arrived in Gympie on May 20th. According to the local papers, the roads Karl travelled between these two locations were the worst he had encountered so far.

As for me, it also took some time to reach Gympie, but for a very different reason. I was happily sidetracked, taking advantage of travelling through Australia's famous "Sunshine Coast."

I focused on more pressing matters, like visiting the Big Pineapple.

Karl left Gympie behind and went to Maryborough for a short rest, a place later transformed by the legacy of a magical nanny named Mary Poppins as the birthplace of the nanny's creator, P.L. Travers.

Northward, Karl passed through Bundaberg, then cycled to Gladstone and reached Rockhampton on May 29th at 3:00 p.m. There, he was escorted into town by a small procession of local cyclists, Rockhamptonites, and gave his first lecture at the newly built Hibernian Hall.

Before leaving Rockhampton, having been repeatedly asked, “Have you seen the Mount?” Karl set off with a small party to Mount Morgan, the gold mine. I followed to the Mount to see the museum that has existed since the closure of the mine. The story of Mount Morgan was too big for one post, so I gave it two and guest chronicler Eve-lyn Rogers helped tell the story of the incredible engineering that powered the mine and the town.

From Mount Morgan, Karl returned to Rockhampton and continued his northward journey, leaving behind the mining country for the sugar plantations of tropical Queensland. His next destination was Mackay, but not before navigating through some of the most challenging terrain he'd encountered yet, dense grasslands that towered over his head and rough tracks that tested his bicycle and his resolve.

While Karl battled through six-foot-high grass and sandy flats, I initially enjoyed the scenic coastal drive until Mother Nature had other plans. After stopping in Mackay,hoping to visit the Whitsunday Islands, I found myself contending with stinger season and relentless rain. Still, I managed a brief boat excursion between weather windows, though the tropical storms were beginning.

From Mackay, Karl and I continued north to Bowen, though our experiences couldn't have been more different. Karl arrived in a small town dependent on the sugar trade, while I stopped for a cheerful photo with the Big Mango, a 10-meter-tall tribute to another tropical fruit that's become one of Australia's famous "big things." After my banana obsession, it seemed only fitting to pay homage to another iconic fruit!

However, our parallel journeys took similar turns as we both struggled to escape this part of Australia. 

In Townsville, Karl arrived deflated and "heartily sick of Australia," desperate for passage to China, only to discover the Boxer Rebellion had jammed shipping routes with military logistics. Meanwhile, I faced cyclone warnings, flash floods, and white-knuckled drives where rivers overflowed onto roads. 

Karl was forced to backtrack to Brisbane and Sydney, searching desperately for any ship that would take him toward China or Japan. I had to push north to Cairns despite worsening weather conditions. But first, I allowed myself a sidetrack to Port Douglas—a tropical resort town that became my haven for winding down the Australian chapter.

Both of us were ready to leave Australia behind, though Karl's departure would prove far more arduous than mine. While I eventually caught my flight to Bali (just as the cyclone calmed), Karl spent nearly two months battling blocked ports, working cargo ships for meagre wages, and delivering lectures to raise funds, all before finally securing passage on the S.S. Bezwada, bound for India with 230 wild horses in his care.

Overall, Australia wasn’t the harsh, wild land we were warned about—it was vibrant, layered, and full of unexpected connections. Karl met missionaries and mayors, and I met marsupials and museum staff. We both left with new stamps in our books, and stories that stretched from the outback to the sea.

Thank you for accompanying Karl and me on this leg of our journey. It was substantial, from my sidetrack to New Zealand, to Uluru, then Melbourne up the coast to Port Douglas. Please stay tuned next week as we leave Australia for Sri Lanka! I hope you join me and share this post with a friend or 10 to subscribe to the Karl Chronicles.


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The Karl Journey is registered as an official expedition with the Royal Geographical Society